Catching up

Wow, it has been a while. Life flies past at an incredible rate, and I find African time is on another level. Mid July already!!

So, the first year at school in Nairobi has finished. It has been brilliant. I have thoroughly enjoyed it. My class have been fantastic, such good fun, and through hard work there has been real progress. The school is amazing in its happiness and laid back approach. Sunny days definitely help, and there is real feeling of the children being children which is wonderful.

I moved house at the beginning of June. I feel so much happier. I now live more centrally, about a 30 minute commute to work (though it was 2 and a half hours for 3 days due to a Cow Show, only in Africa, or maybe rural Wales….). My cottage is sweet and quirky. It has been likened to a caravan as it is long and thin! Crazy big bedroom though with amazing storage, my shoes are now displayed as they always deserved to be! I feel very safe here and find the location very convenient. I have swapped the cockerel for yapping dogs. I stay sane and calm remembering that they are there to protect me, as opposed to just annoy as the cockerel did! My landlord is a dentist (and this week has transformed my black tooth, no more the daily question of, why do you have a black tooth Miss Gregor?!) and visitors to my house always ponder whether this house used to be a dental practice! There is a definite waiting area feel to the living room! But, it is mine, it is secure, private and I love it!

The last few days have been quite mixed. For the most part I love Africa, particularly Nairobi, but there are times when I desperately miss the safety, order and fairness of the UK. I had a bad experience yesterday at the garage whilst they were sorting something on my car. Being a female at the garage is intimidating enough anywhere in the world and their assumption that I am clueless when it comes to cars is perfectly correct. But being a white female here worsens things. Principles perhaps are difficult to develop when the leaders of a country don’t easily share them and corruption is all around. The droughts in the north of the country, the distrust of others that the majority of people share and propagate, the police force, the frightening stories, they are a daily challenge, and one that usually I can overcome without giving my notice and returning, most probably to London (still in my view, the most beautiful, fun and enchanting city in the world!). But there are many pulls here, and after nearly a year I feel settled and have made some fantastic friends to share the adventure and struggles with!

Yesterday I went hiking in the Ngong hills with some friends. The views were beautiful and it was a gorgeous day for walking. 

We had to take two armed guards with us-we asked why two and were told that they were there to also protect each other! Not so great when one of the guards was so unfit that they had to stop on the third out of 5 hills and wait for us to return! I was quite worried when the guard would rest his tummy on the gun point, and just hoped it wasn’t loaded at that point! How different to childhood walks with Dad as our guide, with not even a slingshot!

I am spending the long holidays (not the summer holidays as I keep saying, as it is of course winter here now, though I have tan lines from the hike yesterday, so define winter!) in Nairobi, working as a tutor and English language trainer. I have got some lovely students, and the first week has gone well. I’m hoping to do some weekend trips to see more of Kenya and stay quite flexible in my timetable. Looking forward to racing some camels at an international derby in August. Sure there’ll be lots of tales and mishaps! It’ll be an interesting month or two.

One of the great benefits to my new house is the lack of insects here. Not sure if it’s the change of weather the last few months, but I haven’t need mozzie spray or nets yet. I had a lovely friend staying with me last week, I now am for ever indebted to her! We had just come back from a lovely evening out, and were getting ready for bed when I spotted the biggest cockroach on the floor next to my bed. I tried to calmly call for her assistance. Practical as ever she came with a mug and a piece of paper, and through muffled screams and squeals we managed to get the cockroach outside with just a few slimy remains on my floor! I text her today, fondly calling her my brave cockroach fighter. Brave? she giggled, no, it was the G&T!! I am not sure what it is about Nairobi but everyone here loves G&T, except for me, but if it makes you brave, then I am a new convert! But, yes do not forget that Africa has changed and hardened me and I am less scared…..a spider walked across the kitchen cupboard today and I didn’t even bat an eyelid! You just have to remember where I came from-there has been definite and pronounced progress, it just may seem like none when compared to everyone else here!

Hitch hikers, sun cream and the fourth wheel

I have two Welsh friends staying for a few weeks, so we’re having fun exploring Kenya. Instead of flying to the coast we thought we’d drive so we could see more of the landscape and save a few pennies. The journey down was interesting…..a few challenges which make life exciting and a couple of wrong turns leading down to the ferry terminal all woke us up and made us giggle. So the return journey we reckoned would be the easier one. We were more confident with the route and knew where the petrol stations were (some are few and far between!). The weather wasn’t really on our side though with torrential rain in places which made driving very difficult as there was so little visibility, but again, Vixy proved herself as a wonder car as she waded through a foot’s water and battled the roads. When we stopped for lunch we were all pleased by how smoothly the journey was going. Hmmm….

If only it lasted….20 minutes on there was a big pothole, then a few shudders. I pulled over and we all got out to survey the damage. The front wheel wasn’t looking good so we unpacked the car and went to find the tools. Amazingly, a man was walking along the road past us and even without us asking he picked up the tools and began to jack the car up. There are so few pedestrians along this highway so it was incredible timing. Now I’m not saying that we would be unable to change the wheel but he definitely saved us a lot of time…well, until it came to the last wheel lock. It was just not shifting. He asked if we had any oil….hmmm, no, but the girls came up with the genius idea of using sun cream! The comical aspect of watching him squirt sun cream onto the wheel nut took away any desire to cry!! But it was Becci who really helped and pointed out that he was using the wrong wheel lock. We were so grateful to him, and so when he asked if he could have a lift we were happy to oblige (thinking he meant 20 minutes up the road). As we got into the car we then worked out what he said….he wanted a lift to Nairobi. How we howled!!! The poor man was walking back from Mombasa-it would take about 2 weeks! So we all clambered into the packed car with nervous giggles as we explained his responsibility of changing the CDs and teaching us various Swahili words for the next few hours. The spare tyre limited us to 50kmp/h, so progress was slow, but Wamboa, our new travelling companion was a massive help and showed us where we could get the wheel fixed at a Kenyan rate and then be on our way again…..at speed.

All the tools needed to change a wheel in Kenya

It took about 5 more hours and was a long journey, but was definitely unforgettable. The poor man could not remember Natalie’s name (many Africans struggle with it) so we wrote it down on some paper for him. Watching how he had to take a quick look at the paper ever time he addressed her was so funny. Driving in the dark was tough, I have never felt so grateful to see road markings, though sadly their presence wasn’t consistent. Two weeks previous a truck had collided with Vixy on the same highway…not sure she’ll be going down there again any time soon! The poor thing has had four new wheels in 6 months....the joys of Kenyan driving. 

Wamboa, our Kenyan angel

Mountain Trekking

Before I came to Kenya, one of the things I planned to do when living here was to climb Mount Kenya. So, to mark one of the last things I do at 27, and to tick it off the list, a group of us began our climb on Monday.

We were named Haraka Pole pole Moron (fast slow carrot) and the team was great. Lovely mix of characters which meant morale stayed high even though the temperatures didn’t. We trekked through some gorgeous scenery, really diverse and varied and like I’ve never seen before. The first day was relatively easy; we were ahead of time by an hour and feeling good! It became very windy in the evening and so we were advised not to sleep in the tents (Wahay!) but to sleep in the huts. It did us good and we woke ready for a long day’s hike. The altitude began to affect me despite taking tablets and the last few hours I had a bit of a headache (my fingers really swelled up too-very attractive!) I happily slept for a few hours before tea, and then at 7.30 we all headed to bed. Kara was getting something out of her bag which was on the bunk next to mine when a mouse scrambled out. I was so cold, wearing all my clothes, pjs on top, plus then my coat and scarf that I managed to go to sleep consoling myself with the thought that if a mouse did come into my sleeping bag then it would be extra body warmth! I was very cold. I made everyone call mice and rats Care Bears to take away fear! Not sure if it was my eyesight but I fortunately didn’t see any Care Bears the whole trip.

At 2.45 we woke up and started popping pills and rehydration fluids before we began our climb up to the summit. The stars were incredible, they absolutely filled the sky and there was a gorgeous crescent moon, and Jupiter was visible. We were well wrapped up ready for the freezing temperatures and walked one behind each other, staying very close, as the only lights were from our head torches. About twenty minutes in I was really struggling. The air was so thin, and my poor asthmatic lungs, which had had quite a beating over the last few days, were close to giving up. I formulated two strong arguments in my head to give to the members of my group who would encourage me most persuasively to stay, and told them that I was returning to camp. However instead of them arguing for me to stay, they suggested I try going to the front behind our guide and set the pace. I don’t know how or why, but it was then easy. I was still def the runt of the group, asthma pump at hand always, and also the pace slowed, but I felt more in control. The guide, Frances held my hand at times for further encouragement (yes, I did feel about 5, but I also made it!! Whatever it takes…). It was snowy but that was all we could tell really as it was so dark out and our heads were just focused on following the footsteps of the person in front. As the sun began to rise we hit some big rocks. I am so thankful for the Climbing course I did in London, and the bouldering section. We had to proper scramble and it was a bit hairy at times as they were so icy but thankfully we all safely made it and reached the top.

It was incredible to summit. It was a clear morning and the views were stunning.  It was so beautiful, and really surreal to be so high, above the clouds in parts. The Welsh flag came out!

Toby and I, layered up Welshies

The way down was hard. Seeing the slope in the light, and realising how steep and rocky it was, was scary! I couldn’t believe it was the same route that we had walked up earlier. Fortunately another guide took me under his wing and held my hand the whole way down to stop me slipping as the snow and mud often gave way. My team took the mick a bit, but I think they were just jealous as they had to battle alone!! We returned for brekkie and then began the rest of the hike back to the gate, which had taken us a day and a half to climb. This was when I realised that there is a new type of tiredness. The last two hours were really tough. Having to concentrate on footing when walking downhill, as well as having had such an early and physical start left 7 rather tired people! We decided to stay locally for the night. Oh the joys of showering and falling asleep without winter coats and hats on!

We drove back this morning, and crossed the equator back into the southern hemisphere. We stopped to take some pics and watch the water experiment. I was very impressed, and would def recommend it! It is really cool!

I’m waiting for my water tank to heat up now to have a soothing bath, walking like a granny at the mo, reminds me of my post marathon walk-I’m happy to be living in a bungalow! Not sure I am tempted to climb any more mountains. As we were going up to the summit I told the team that I was def not up for Kili and needed to remember the feelings of how much I was not enjoying it so as not to do it again…..but when I went to the front I had to try hard to suppress the enjoyable feelings! As wicked as it was, and as much I would recommend others to do it, altitude and asthma is hard work!! Think I’d like to do Snowdon next. 

Candles and sunglasses

I started learning Swahili this year and am really enjoying it. My friend Slavica and I go, and we have a fab teacher, Jonah, who somehow puts up with our giggles and tangents.

Tonight there was a power cut in the area where our class is, so driving there was a bit of a mission…and in true Hannah form I also struggled to find the place (don’t want to mention how many times I have previously driven there, it doesn’t make me look good). After a few wrong turns and phone calls to Slavica I pulled over to re trace my route. It was then that a car pulled alongside me, beeping and flashing. Then the window went down and I could see an African man motioning to me. I was so scared, believing this was a car jack! Hahahaha brave African Hannah you see?!  It took Slavica to call me to tell me it was her and Jonah, who were out to find me, for me to calm down and follow them! Oh how we laughed and laughed and laughed. In the school we had a lesson by candlelight in true African style. It was so hard to read the board, especially as I had left my glasses at a friend’s house so was trying to make do with my prescription sunnies, which in my defence would have worked fine if there was lighting (I have had to wear them to watch a few rugby games here when I have forgotten my glasses so they are tried and tested for evening wear when needed!) but in a very dim room with just a couple of small candles it was a nightmare! I pulled my desk right to the front too, but to little avail. And today we started on Swahili grammar…..it was hard going! Slavica and I kept remembering the car jacking or sunglasses wearing and so the giggles continued. Poor Jonah, he kept asking what was so funny, and didn’t seem to see how we were still finding the evening’s events so amusing.

I am happy to be home and with electricity, but will leave Swahili study for tomorrow…..

Hot hot hot!!

Do kinda feel that a pic of Enrique would be quite fitting here but I will resist!!

This afternoon I took my class around campus to measure the temperature in different spots. We started off with ice, then moved to the swimming pool. Those of you who have swam in the swimming pool here will agree that at times it does feel like ice! We all sat on the edge with our thermometers in the pool....as I had flip flops on I thought it fitting to dangle my feet in the pool. It was hot today! 12 children then followed suit, or asked to.....as they all had their shoes and socks on I suggested they put a hand in....or jokingly, suggested maybe a nose! I could not believe when suddenly there were 12 little noses in the pool! So sweet! The kids loved it, and was so funny! Fortunately none of them fell in, and they all seemed quite refreshed afterwards! On the Astro turf we measured 51 degrees C so they soon dried off. It is crazy hot today!! Have new respect for the children who have to run around playing hockey on it. No wonder Kenyan runners are so successful!

How Kenya has changed me...

The other day I was in the shower and realised that there were quite a few spiders...now, rewind a few months and I would have been out like a shot, calling for help!! I hardly batted an eyelid and this made me smile as I thought of how brave I had become. Hahahaha you really have to do a before and after comparison to describe me as brave!!

A few examples:
Geckos have become my friends-is quite easy to love them when they eat mozzies.
Camping is no longer an absolute no chance possibility when going away.
I am no longer a veggie....not even close. No excuses either actually  as veggie food is great here, but the 4 days that I lived in Africa as a veggie I did get a lot of hassle and stick!
My driving has def changed....cutting people up is no longer a thing to worry about...instead it's watching out for traffic coming towards you in your own lane, fog lights blinding you, baboons crossing in front of you...

Major exception to the new brave Hannah was my first Kenyan cockroach sighting....in my bath. I shrieked and ran out...came back a few hours later and fortunately there have been no future sightings. There are def a few areas where I refuse to become fully Africanised.....still wear heels every day, still love nail varnish, still won't have pets, still hate mozzie nets and try to avoid them as much as poss but I do feel the change is very admirable!!

Kenyan sweetness

The last few weeks have been filled with experiences of Kenya that despite some rather crazy things happening, are endearing and kinda refreshing....

I went to the cinema and for once was really late so got to see the trailers! When they finished, on came the national anthem! Sadly no-one stood up which I have heard is the normal thing (there was only about 6 of us in the cinema and I wasn't going to lead the standing-I thought my friend was joking about it!), thought this was incredibly sweet!

Next followed our school trip to the Railway Museum. It was on this day that my job really felt poles apart from working in the UK. I don't think we saw any signs of keep off, or out of bounds...the kids were completely free to jump all over the trains, climb on the roofs.....at times I couldn't watch!! Amazingly we returned with no casualties.

Yesterday to conclude our Kenyan History topic in school our year group held a Jamhuri day. It was so fun! The kids dressed up in traditional Kenyan clothes, brought in various flags and cakes decorated with the Kenyan colours and we celebrated! We had a Masai jumping competition for the boys to prove their strength whilst the girls hummed and did a shoulder dance, entered a spear (ruler!) throwing and long jump contest and tried to learn the anthem and had Kenyan quizzes. This was after monkeys jumped over the roof and played in the trees at lunchtime (not so keen on the warthogs at the mo-one gave me quite a fright the other day, and they have gotten huge, they are absolute beasts!) and so despite the crazy storms that have been disturbing our sleep the last few nights (I have never heard such loud thunder) I am feeling rather endeared to Kenya at the mo! The fact that our mini half term break has just started may also be a contributing factor...and the fact that in about 12 hours I will be on my way to the airport to pick up my dear older brother, yay!!